Draught-proofing and insulation
There are a lot of fairly simple steps you can take to make sure that
your home is kept as warm as possible, without spending a fortune on heating.
If the building you live in is not very new, it probably won't have been
built with much regard to energy conservation.
• Single-glazed windows are one of the biggest culprits for losing
heat - 20% or more of the total heat loss. Double glazing is the only
real answer, but it isn't cheap. If you can afford it, replacement sealed
unit double-glazed windows are the most energy efficient, though often
not the right choice aesthetically for older properties. Secondary double
glazing (an extra pane of glass fitted inside your existing window frame)
is almost as good, and can be cheaper. If money is really tight, even
a layer of clear plastic film over the windows will make a difference.
• Check for gaps around external doors and windows - 10-15% of
heat loss occurs this way. If you can feel a draught, sort it out. Permanent
gaps (between the window frame and wall, for example) can be filled indoors
and out with a flexible mastic or caulking, while gaps around the opening
part of the window or door need some sort of draughtproofing strip. The
cheapest adhesive foam strips are only really sensible for doors and windows
that are rarely opened, as they can't withstand much wear and tear. Elsewhere,
sprung metal strips or rubber gaskets in a plastic housing work well and
last longer. Don't forget to check for under-door draughts - a threshold
strip on the floor, or a rubber or brush strip on the bottom of the door
should deal with this.
• Loft insulation is essential - 25% of lost heat makes its way
through the roof. It is likely that you have some insulation in the loft,
but it is worth topping up if the layer is less than 6" (15cm) thick.
While you're checking the loft, make sure that any water tanks and pipes
are properly lagged - they won't be protected from freezing by the heat
from your home underneath if you've done the insulating properly!
• Check the insulation of your hot water cylinder - you may not
be losing heat from it to the outside air, but you're still paying more
than you need for your hot water if you allow it to escape. Adding an
extra insulating jacket over the existing layer makes sense. It isn't
necessary to lag the hot water pipes - unless they run along a cold outside
wall, or have a long run to the tap, so the water cools before it gets
there.
• Walls - cavity walls (the most usual form of construction in
Britain) give some insulation, though heat does still escape through solid
walls. The insulation can be improved by adding insulating material -
plastic foam or beads, or mineral wool - in the cavity. This is done by
drilling holes in the outer leaf and blowing the material in, so it is
a fairly major undertaking. You can make cold walls feel warmer and help
reduce condensation problems by decorating the wall with a material like
blown vinyl or cork, or using a thin layer of expanded polystyrene as
a lining paper.
Check your heating system
• Get your gas or electricity company to check that your central
heating is working properly - it should be serviced once a year.
• Make sure that you know how to set the controls, and how to restart
the system if it is stopped by a power cut, for example.
• If you are buying a new fire or heater, you can call the Energy
Efficiency Advice Centre for free on 0800 512 012. They will advise you
on the best choice for your type of home.
• Try not to use paraffin heaters if possible - they produce a
litre of water vapour for every litre of fuel they burn - just think of
the condensation!
• Remember that ventilation is important - never block up air bricks
in your enthusiasm for draught-proofing. Some types of heater can produce
fumes that may be fatal if the room is not properly ventilated. It is
probably a good idea to keep internal doors to rooms that you use regularly
open so that air and warmth can circulate.
Grants for Insulation - eligibility
There are different schemes running in the various regions: it has been confirmed that grants for insulating lofts and cavity walls will be available at least until 2011.
You may be eligible for free insulation if you own your home or rent from a private sector landlord and receive one of these qualifying benefits:
Attendance Allowance
Council Tax Benefit
Disability Living Allowance
Housing Benefit
Pension Credit
Income Support
Income-based Jobseekers Allowance
Child Tax Credit (with household income less than £14,600 per annum)
Working Tax Credit (with household income less than £14,600 per annum)
Click here for more about applying for grants and other ways of saving money, in the next section of Keeping Warm